Straight lines, even grout, and a shower that stays dry.

Tile Work in Leander, TX

Tile is the trade where the invisible part decides everything. A backsplash is a Saturday; a shower is waterproofing, slope, and a pan that will still be dry in ten years. I do both, and I do the part behind the tile properly: membrane, slope to drain, the right thinset for the tile you actually picked.

Most tile I'm called out to fix failed underneath, not on the surface: cracked grout that was really a movement joint nobody left, or a shower niche that was never waterproofed. If yours is failing, I'll tell you honestly whether it's a repair or a tear-out before you spend anything.

What that includes

• Kitchen and bar backsplashes
• Shower and tub surrounds, incl. waterproofing and niches
• Floor tile: porcelain, ceramic, stone, large-format
• Regrouting, recaulking and cracked-tile replacement
• Curbless and low-threshold shower conversions
• Heated-floor mat set under tile

How I go about it

1. Check what is underneath

   Tile is only as good as its substrate. I check for movement, damp and flatness before anything is ordered, because that is what decides whether this is a repair or a rebuild.

2. Waterproof properly

   In a wet area the waterproofing goes behind the tile and it is the part nobody sees. Grout is not waterproofing and never was.

3. Set out from the right line

   I plan the layout so cuts land where they are least visible and you are not left with a sliver at the most obvious edge.

4. Set, then grout

   Full coverage behind each tile, consistent spacing, and grout once the adhesive has properly cured rather than the same afternoon.

5. Flexible joints where they belong

   Internal corners and changes of plane get a flexible joint, not rigid grout. That single detail is why most cracked shower grout cracks.